Recent content by 1aespinoza

If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the sub (Ohms). Also make sure the fuse by the battery is snug. Refresh the ground connection as well.

So where the wire enters the cabin it is not chaffed or pinched? Has it happened more than once? What is the fuse rating and the amp's combined fuse rating.

Yes.

Actually the sub and amp are compatible. It says the channels are 2 Ohms capable, so the bridged channels are 4 Ohms. Bridge the rears to the Sub and use the fronts for full range.

L & R signal guarantees you will not miss any program material in stereo recordings, which is the norm nowadays. It is also Double the Voltage as compared to using only one side. Passive LOCs work best with amplified signals, exempli gratia after the amp or radio speaker outputs. Since you...

In that case, the Alpine subs that AnthonyO is selling are another great option. They are the Alpine S2-W10D4. The recommended sealed box per sub is 0.4-0.85 cubic feet. So with a sealed box of 1 to 1.5 cubic feet you can mount both subs in it. Being that you have an SUV, the bass will be...

I think I recommended these to you already, but if not, Bazooka BT1024DVC or BT8024DVC. They are subs in a tube that have a high sensitivity and excellent playback. They are not heavy and can be easily removed when need be.

Not at all. Only the speaker's sensitivity is what counts in the front stage. 90dB and above is a good target.

Where are you getting the power for the remote turn on on the sub amp?

That C4 looks mighty nice. Reminds me of the Stereo Integrity SIQ amps.

Damn, that is impressive. I heard all good things about Arc Audio but did not know they were that advanced.

Yes. Only thing is the leads will be encased in resin. Keep in mind that this is an assumption.

By your description it seems to to me that the issue lies in the tinsel lead to voicecoil lead solder point. That happens often in OEM speakers and have the same results as your testing method.

Awesome read.