Recent content by AndrewHD

The specs do not ship with the woofer. I would assume the qts should be closer to .707. So I would go with .61/.62. This is just what I think, I have no specs to go by.

Next get some wire, 12 gauge preferably, and hook up the + and - on the amps speaker wire inputs. Then hook it up to your sub. You need to provide us with more info like what sub (and its ohm rating and if it is single voice coil or dual voice coils) and amp you have so we can tell you the...

Battery + wire is ran from the car's battery + terminal to the amplifier's battery + power input. Remote wire goes from back of the head unit to the remote turn on input on the amp (it should already be ran from the head unit since you had another amp before so just find the remote input on the...

Ok thanks for the replies guys, I have the 2500 bdcp it puts out at least 1500w at 4ohms. The birth sheet is showing just over 2,000w at 14 volts. Should I still wire to 1 ohm?

I may try running it at 1 ohm but I had a Q before on 1000 watts only and they sound great. I only have one battery up front so I'm trying to make it as efficient as possible running it at 4 ohms

Its D2 and I will be running it at 4 ohms so 2.5 it is. Was just wondering if a smaller box with High QTS would sound decent

Hello everyone, I just picked up a FI Q 15 with high QTS option and wondering what the best size sealed box would be? The website says 2.0-2.6 cu.ft. so I'm guessing on the larger side. What If I were to build a 2.0 cu ft box would it not sound good?

Yup, you can always keep the 4 channel and add a higher power monoblock down the road if you are not satisfied. Just get good quality 4 channel for now but make sure it makes at least 100 watts RMS per channel and you wont regret it (go higher RMS if your budget allows). But doing this will...

BTL 15 no question. Better quality and sound in my personal experience than the SA's

if it were me I would just get a 4 channel and run a set of passive components up front, forget the rear fill and bridge the other two channels to one subwoofer. Easy and simple for a starter setup

The SP4 should have been able to hit the lows loud and clean. May I ask why you got rid of it? Another $400 sub will not be much better than the SP4 in my opinion

If running a pair of those then your only option would be to run them at 2 ohms. I wouldn't recommend 0.5 unless your electrical is up to par. Still would go with the Soundqubed mentioned or you can look into Powerbass for a budget setup

15 BTL and tune on the high side if you are just chasing numbers

What subs are you running? And what ohm voice coils are they?

So the AQ turned on after only running the front battery? Are you running the amp at 1 ohm? If so I would get a HO alternator first and stick with one good battery up front for the meantime (if the battery is truly dead) but that's just me