Active speaker system opinion

[SlugButter]

Debating on running an active setup on 2 channel amps that will be built into pods in my doors, eliminating amps under my seats. the class D amp boards i will be building run at around 50-60 watts rms per channel. Last system I did used passive crossovers. ive never run active before. the sub I’m using will be a Dayton audio ultimax 10 inch in a 4th order band pass on 600 rms watts. These are the initial speakers I have chosen. I am definitely open to changing them.

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Dayton Audio RS150P-4A 6" Reference Paper Woofer 4 OhmNow with improved frequency response – we tweaked the design and the result is a much a smoother high frequency roll-off allowing for extended bandwidth and easier crossover integration.The performance of the original groundbreaking Reference...

www.parts-express.com

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Peerless D26NC05-06 1" Silk Dome Tweeter 6 OhmThe Peerless D26NC05-06 surface mount tweeter will provide smooth and accurate high frequency response thanks to the 1" silk dome and small rear resonant chamber. This tweeter is ideal for use in car audio systems, or even compact 2-way portable...

www.parts-express.com

The Dayton midbass is rated at 40 watts, but in a sealed pod Im hoping the output will be ok. If I’m going to build amplifier boards(along with some other modules to control power, etc.) into the pods, I can’t get much bigger than 50 rms x 2 in each pod. Are there any speakers you guys would suggest that would fit my bill? My other option is to build mono amps into the pods and just run 100 watt rms coaxials, but that would be the easiest route, not necessarily the best for sound quality.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Debating on running an active setup on 2 channel amps that will be built into pods in my doors, eliminating amps under my seats. the class D amp boards i will be building run at around 50-60 watts rms per channel. Last system I did used passive crossovers. ive never run active before. the sub I’m using will be a Dayton audio ultimax 10 inch in a 4th order band pass on 600 rms watts. These are the initial speakers I have chosen. I am definitely open to changing them.

Home

Dayton Audio RS150P-4A 6" Reference Paper Woofer 4 OhmNow with improved frequency response – we tweaked the design and the result is a much a smoother high frequency roll-off allowing for extended bandwidth and easier crossover integration.The performance of the original groundbreaking Reference...

www.parts-express.com

Home

Peerless D26NC05-06 1" Silk Dome Tweeter 6 OhmThe Peerless D26NC05-06 surface mount tweeter will provide smooth and accurate high frequency response thanks to the 1" silk dome and small rear resonant chamber. This tweeter is ideal for use in car audio systems, or even compact 2-way portable...

www.parts-express.com

The Dayton midbass is rated at 40 watts, but in a sealed pod Im hoping the output will be ok. If I’m going to build amplifier boards(along with some other modules to control power, etc.) into the pods, I can’t get much bigger than 50 rms x 2 in each pod. Are there any speakers you guys would suggest that would fit my bill? My other option is to build mono amps into the pods and just run 100 watt rms coaxials, but that would be the easiest route, not necessarily the best for sound quality.

I definitely think you can get way more than 50 rms for a pod build. heck you can even get two alpine power pack and bridge them as well and get 90 watts.

these nano amps are tiny and will have more than enough power for you and they fit the size of your pocket. 125 watts rms per channel at 12.6 volts and 150 x 2 at 14.4 volts.

Soundigital 250.2D NANO at Onlinecarstereo.com

Shop Lowest Price on: Soundigital 250.2D NANO - Class D Amplifiers | Nano Line Class D | 2-Channel Car Amplifier with 250 Watts RMS | Features: Version 4 Ohms Power per channel: Power @ 12.6V: 250w Power @ 14.4V: 300w Power 1 x 250 watts @ 4 ohms in bridge @ 12.6V Power 1 x 300 watts @ 4 ohms...

www.onlinecarstereo.com

amp dyno just if you doubt their power ratings, of course this is with their monoblock tho.

 

[SlugButter]

I might actually consider those. I used to run the xtant 1.1 amps way back in the day. They had no features to speak of. Only a gain adjustment. All the features on these amps are unnecessary in my application, except the gain, since I’m controlling everything from the deck anyway.

 

[SlugButter]

One of the problems is that since I’m building directly in the pod, I would need a gain knob on the door panel. With raw amp boards I can just solder on the board and run the gain knob next to the speaker on the outside of the door panel. Really don’t want to pull door panels off all the time to adjust it. I wonder if I can solder a gain control directly onto that soundigitals amp board and run it independent? I’ve never seen those. Now I’m extremely intrigued.