Sundown SA12 v.2 or U12 with kicker CXA1200.1?

[04AcuraTL 10+ year member]

That is one of the most bizarre things that I've heard lately. Set your gains right and get a bass knob with a clip light and bass on. Why would you try to scare the OP into thinking he is going to fry his sub with his amp? His amp is plenty big enough to run that sub. The bigger question is what headunit is he using and how clean of a signal is he sending the sub amp.

I’m not finding any bass knobs with a clip signal that are compatible with my amp, do you know of any?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I guess you don't know what box rise is.

Your subs will really only be at the ohm load it's wired to at rest. As soon as you start playing music the ohm loud oscillates up and down. It won't go down below wired ohm load but it will go up.

So if you wire to 1ohm and it rises to 2 the power stays the same.

Wire to 2 and it rises to 4 and you lose power.

Now you could wire to 1 and have rise well beyond 2 but you are really better off wiring to the lower ohm load in this situation

 

[04AcuraTL 10+ year member]

I guess you don't know what box rise is.

Your subs will really only be at the ohm load it's wired to at rest. As soon as you start playing music the ohm loud oscillates up and down. It won't go down below wired ohm load but it will go up.

So if you wire to 1ohm and it rises to 2 the power stays the same.

Wire to 2 and it rises to 4 and you lose power.

Now you could wire to 1 and have rise well beyond 2 but you are really better off wiring to the lower ohm load in this situation

Interesting, I did not know this, been out of the game a long time. I’ll definitely do some digging on this point.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

The older version is rated at 750 watts RMS, with an amp putting out 1150 watts RMS I’d rather go with the updated version rated at 1000 watts RMS for $80 more (since I’m only running 1 sub). Appreciate the suggestion though.
Their amps come with a certified power birthsheet so I’ll know more when that is delivered.

You'll be lucky to clamp 750 watts @ 1 ohm. That 1,000 watt rms sub needs at least a 2K amp to properly push it. Knock yourself out kid. I see a new amp in your future.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

You'll be lucky to clamp 750 watts @ 1 ohm. That 1,000 watt rms sub needs at least a 2K amp to properly push it. Knock yourself out kid. I see a new amp in your future.

Why does it need that much power?
Not everyone needs to over power their subs. Hell your talking about double rms to a guy that liley doesn't know how to safely set amp gains. Considering he doesn't even know what box rise is.

My (2) sa10v2 got damn loud on 1500 rated watts realistically closer to 2000w.

You could easily build a slightly larger box to gain efficiency. The 2.75inch voice coil of the sa v2 sure can hold more power but if you want to throw more I'd suggest just going ahead to the 3inch coil u series

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Why does it need that much power?
Not everyone needs to over power their subs. Hell your talking about double rms to a guy that liley doesn't know how to safely set amp gains. Considering he doesn't even know what box rise is.

My (2) sa10v2 got damn loud on 1500 rated watts realistically closer to 2000w.

You could easily build a slightly larger box to gain efficiency. The 2.75inch voice coil of the sa v2 sure can hold more power but if you want to throw more I'd suggest just going ahead to the 3inch coil u seriesView attachment 40948

Did you clamp 1,500 watts or is that just your guess? A good rule of thumb is to have an amp double the rms watts of your sub(s). He can use whatever he wants to use. A bugger amp will also have more headroom, run cooler, and allow for a future upgrade to dual subs. The SIA1750 would be perfect for that 1,000 watt rms Sundown. If he was smart then he should get the SIA2500 to have the option to add another sub in the future. It's his choice.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Did you clamp 1,500 watts or is that just your guess? A good rule of thumb is to have an amp double the rms watts of your sub(s). He can use whatever he wants to use. A bugger amp will also have more headroom, run cooler, and allow for a future upgrade to dual subs. The SIA1750 would be perfect for that 1,000 watt rms Sundown. If he was smart then he should get the SIA2500 to have the option to add another sub in the future. It's his choice.

Clamping doesn't really do anything but tell you power at a certain frequency.

Of course you can over power if you know how to keep the subs out of clipping. And from unloading due to poor box design, and keep the amps voltage up so low voltage doesn't cause clipping. Does he even have the electrical for that 2-3kw amp you are pushing 200-300amps of current on stock electrical is gonna go swell.

But for a new guy it's not necessary. Your right it's his choice.

 

[04AcuraTL 10+ year member]

No need to bash each other gentlemen!
My stock alternator is 130 amps and I’m not planning on doing any electrical system upgrades. I’m running a 360 watt RMS 4 channel amp and a 1200 watt rms mono for the SA12 V.2. I want one 12” sub that will sound good and get fairly loud when I want it to. It will be installed at a reputable dealer who will set the gains properly and I won’t mess with them.
I used to be big into car audio (hence the 2012 join date) and box rise wasn’t a thing back then. But in the past I never overpowered anything and always had my gains properly set to avoid clipping so my equipment would almost always outlive the warranty.
The SA12 can clearly handle more power than the RMS rating, but I didn’t know if that was a good idea for daily use based on my previous experience or if I should go with the beefier U series. Sounds like the SA12V.2 checks all the boxes based on the crazily overpowered setups I’ve seen using them.
Attached is my box design for the SA12V.2, it is what Sundown suggests for that sub (1.75 cf net volume @35hz).
I’m not trying to compete or break eardrums, just want a quality setup with some punch and low notes.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

No need to bash each other gentlemen!
My stock alternator is 130 amps and I’m not planning on doing any electrical system upgrades. I’m running a 360 watt RMS 4 channel amp and a 1200 watt rms mono for the SA12 V.2. I want one 12” sub that will sound good and get fairly loud when I want it to. It will be installed at a reputable dealer who will set the gains properly and I won’t mess with them.
I used to be big into car audio (hence the 2012 join date) and box rise wasn’t a thing back then. But in the past I never overpowered anything and always had my gains properly set to avoid clipping so my equipment would almost always outlive the warranty.
The SA12 can clearly handle more power than the RMS rating, but I didn’t know if that was a good idea for daily use based on my previous experience or if I should go with the beefier U series. Sounds like the SA12V.2 checks all the boxes based on the crazily overpowered setups I’ve seen using them.
Attached is my box design for the SA12V.2, it is what Sundown suggests for that sub (1.75 cf net volume @35hz).
I’m not trying to compete or break eardrums, just want a quality setup with some punch and low notes.

Personally I'd go 2cubes at 32-36hz

I had my sa10v2 in 1.5 each. That said I haven't modeled the 12.

 

[04AcuraTL 10+ year member]

Personally I'd go 2cubes at 32-36hz

I had my sa10v2 in 1.5 each. That said I haven't modeled the 12.

What do you use to model it? I haven’t started building the box or amp rack yet so I could change it, was just going off of Sundown suggested box specs. Haven’t heard back from tech support yet!

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

What do you use to model it? I haven’t started building the box or amp rack yet so I could change it, was just going off of Sundown suggested box specs. Haven’t heard back from tech support yet!

There are lots of different programs. Winisd gives you the basics