Does it matter where the port is and if subs share or have individual ports?

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Ok folks, I am going to go with 2 12's in a ported box hopefully sooner rather than later ( not sure on subs just yet ) I am going to get a custom ported box made most likely around 4 ft^3 tuned around 32-35 hz. Now most port boxes I see with 2 subs have the port on the right side of the box. Will it make any difference if the port is in the middle of the box in between the subs and they share the chamber? Also what would be the difference in each sub having it's own chamber and port vs sharing a chamber and 1 port?

 
Port and sub placement can alter the response curve, but if you move them on the same plain you wont always notice much if any difference.

The differences will depend on the application more then anything.

 
Ok folks, I am going to go with 2 12's in a ported box hopefully sooner rather than later ( not sure on subs just yet ) I am going to get a custom ported box made most likely around 4 ft^3 tuned around 32-35 hz. Now most port boxes I see with 2 subs have the port on the right side of the box. Will it make any difference if the port is in the middle of the box in between the subs and they share the chamber? Also what would be the difference in each sub having it's own chamber and port vs sharing a chamber and 1 port?
- If the box is designed properly it will not matter whether the port is in the middle or side, it will however possibly make a slight difference to YOUR VEHICLE in relation to mounting location & position... A single enclosure for multiple subs does NOT require separate ports for each individual sub, like I said before a PROPER design will give you the port dimensions the subs NEED & tuning frequency you are after...
 
- If the box is designed properly it will not matter whether the port is in the middle or side, it will however possibly make a slight difference to YOUR VEHICLE in relation to mounting location & position... A single enclosure for multiple subs does NOT require separate ports for each individual sub, like I said before a PROPER design will give you the port dimensions the subs NEED & tuning frequency you are after...
Well I'm thinking about going with Pro-Rabbit to have my box built. My car is a 08 Camry so the box will go in the trunk. I'm thinking 2 Sundown E series 12's in a 4.24 ft^3 box ( each sub has .12 displacement so 4.24 should net me 4ft^3 after subs in the box right ?) with about 800 rms tuned to 32-35 hz. Sundown's specs say that's the perfect box for a e series 12. 2 ft at 35 hz

 
Again though, I'm still not sure on the subs. I may just go with a single 15" Gcon or maybe an FI x series 15. Not sure yet. I am sure on the amp. SoundQubed 750.1D ( 750x1 rms @ 1 ohm ) I don't want to go with more power than that cause I don't want to upgrade my electrical system i.e alternator. All I am going to do is the big 3 and get the best battery I can find to put under the hood replacing the stock battery. Unless you guys think the big 3 and a good battery under the hood could run a 1200.1D???? Keep in my I will also be running 200 rms to my mids and highs for my front stage.

 
Well I'm thinking about going with Pro-Rabbit to have my box built. My car is a 08 Camry so the box will go in the trunk. I'm thinking 2 Sundown E series 12's in a 4.24 ft^3 box ( each sub has .12 displacement so 4.24 should net me 4ft^3 after subs in the box right ?) with about 800 rms tuned to 32-35 hz. Sundown's specs say that's the perfect box for a e series 12. 2 ft at 35 hz
Pro-Rabbit will build you an enclosure that those subs will sound good in for your application, he knows what he's doing... Be sure to post up some pics when you get it all done //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
 
Again though, I'm still not sure on the subs. I may just go with a single 15" Gcon or maybe an FI x series 15. Not sure yet. I am sure on the amp. SoundQubed 750.1D ( 750x1 rms @ 1 ohm ) I don't want to go with more power than that cause I don't want to upgrade my electrical system i.e alternator. All I am going to do is the big 3 and get the best battery I can find to put under the hood replacing the stock battery. Unless you guys think the big 3 and a good battery under the hood could run a 1200.1D???? Keep in my I will also be running 200 rms to my mids and highs for my front stage.
- Big 3, good wiring, and a good batt will support a 1200 rms amp for most daily applications, I've gotten away with worse //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif As long as you're not constantly cranking test tones @ full tilt you should be fine, but expect light dimming at mid to high volumes at night //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
 
Pro-Rabbit will build you an enclosure that those subs will sound good in for your application, he knows what he's doing... Be sure to post up some pics when you get it all done //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif
Oh no doubt man! I have my HU already ( Pioneer AVH-X2500BT DoubleDin Touch Screen ) next Friday I'm gonna order my Comp set and amp. I have decided on the Image Dynamics CTX 6.5" comps with the Arc Audio FD2200 ( 100x2 rms ). Together they will only run me about $340 shipped. In the mean time I have been working on deadening and sealing the doors. Only have the passenger door done so far. It was my first time and took me a whole day but I have to admit it was fun and I learned alot. Even with the stock speakers still in it made such a HUGE difference in sound. If I fade to the right it sounds 10x better than the driver side door speaker. The biggest difference was the midbass. Really makes you understand why you guys talk about install being so important. It really is. I used to just have everything done for me but not this time. Only the Box is gonna be made for me everything else I'm gonna install.

Btw, The comp set is about 95 percent certain. I am still considering the Morel Maximo's but I'm leaning towards the ID CTX's

 
- Big 3, good wiring, and a good batt will support a 1200 rms amp for most daily applications, I've gotten away with worse //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif As long as you're not constantly cranking test tones @ full tilt you should be fine, but expect light dimming at mid to high volumes at night //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I thought the big 3 was good wiring?

 
Good deal man //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif and not to worry, enclosure building is NOT everyone's cup of tea... As long as you are having fun and learning in the process, that's what it's all about, part of that learning is knowing when to ask for help or sub-contract certain parts of your install such as your enclosure to someone with experience so that you can get the results you are after //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

---------- Post added at 07:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:23 PM ----------

 

big 3 doesn't include your power and ground to your amp(s) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Good deal man //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif and not to worry, enclosure building is NOT everyone's cup of tea... As long as you are having fun and learning in the process, that's what it's all about, part of that learning is knowing when to ask for help or sub-contract certain parts of your install such as your enclosure to someone with experience so that you can get the results you are after //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif 

---------- Post added at 07:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:23 PM ----------

 

 

big 3 doesn't include your power and ground to your amp(s) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Did you build your box? That box looks so sweet! Love the white port with the splatter red. That is 1 big *** port! What size box is that and what you got it tuned at? Also how does it sound? I'm considering SA subs myself.

 
Did you build your box? That box looks so sweet! Love the white port with the splatter red. That is 1 big *** port! What size box is that and what you got it tuned at? Also how does it sound? I'm considering SA subs myself.
I had help with this build, I don't have shop space anymore for now...Thanks though man I appreciate it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif - My enclosure is built from a PWK design blueprint, it's 3.88 cu ft gross, mid 2-ish cu ft. net - It is a big @ss port, but only at the exit (7") - it tapers down gradually (Horn design) Tuning is in the mid 30's, It sounds freakin' awesome for a single lil old SA firing in a TRUNK - I'm very pleased - but this box was NOT designed for the SA series 12... It was designed for the new X & z.V4 12" subs, I'm just running an SA in there for now because I got a good used one for cheap so I could use my new enclosure until I get my new sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
 
So if I tell Pro-Rabbit I need a box for 2 12's with a 4ft^3 net tuned at 35 hz the box would actually be bigger than 4 to account for sub and port displacement right? I guess he would know that though and make it the right size to begin with so it does equal 4 ft tuned at 35 after displacement

 
So if I tell Pro-Rabbit I need a box for 2 12's with a 4ft^3 net tuned at 35 hz the box would actually be bigger than 4 to account for sub and port displacement right? I guess he would know that though and make it the right size to begin with so it does equal 4 ft tuned at 35 after displacement
- Most definitely, as NET volume is AFTER port, sub, bracing, baffle, etc. displacement //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif - I'd just tell him what subs you are going to run, what your max dimensions are to not only fit the space where you want them, but to be able to be put into that space/removed as well (NOT always the same, a lot of car trunk openings are small) and the vehicle you want this build for, the power you are running, and what you plan to do with it - ie - daily listening, competing, etc.
 
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